Replacing catalytic converter after 700 miles

Jeffhallphotos

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Roseville, CA
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2025 Hydro Blue RHO
Current Ride #2
2022 Jeep 392
So my truck has been at the dealership for over two weeks. First they thought that the O2 sensor was bad, but then they found out that the CAT was completely melted. So they gave me a brand new ram 3500 truck to drive while it’s being repaired and I have put over 800 miles on this truck so far.

My question is, should I be doing anything different once I get my truck back? Should I be driving slower? not accelerate fast? I just want to try and prevent this happening again and it’s been really frustrating when the dealership doesn’t know a lot about it at all. Here’s to hoping that when I get it back tomorrow that it is smooth sailing from here on out.
IMG_3968.webp
 
I struggle with the notion of having to baby a high performance truck so it doesn't destroy itself. If your dealer is offering to give you a loaner, I would drive it like you want and have them foot the bill when something goes wrong. You shouldn't have to "baby" this truck so it survives!
 
Dont change your driving habits. The truck was built for it or it wasnt. But dont be that guy that never redlines the engine either. Going to redline helps somewhat with keeping these DI engine intake valves clean.

Chris
 
Since we don’t really know what is causing the cats to melt, driving it super nice might actually be worse. Nobody seems to know.

The only theory I’ve heard so far that makes any sense is a short in the wiring develops & it impacts fuel mixture. But, are those with replaced cats also getting new wiring harnesses?

Blah…
 
So my truck has been at the dealership for over two weeks. First they thought that the O2 sensor was bad, but then they found out that the CAT was completely melted. So they gave me a brand new ram 3500 truck to drive while it’s being repaired and I have put over 800 miles on this truck so far.

My question is, should I be doing anything different once I get my truck back? Should I be driving slower? not accelerate fast? I just want to try and prevent this happening again and it’s been really frustrating when the dealership doesn’t know a lot about it at all. Here’s to hoping that when I get it back tomorrow that it is smooth sailing from here on out.View attachment 7803
No! You bought a truck that is a highly capable on and off road that should be driven like a bat out of hell. RAM needs to resolve these issues through a major recall!
 
No! You bought a truck that is a highly capable on and off road truck that should be driven like a bat out of hell. RAM needs to resolved these issues through a major recall!
I guess my next question would be, what are steps that I can take to get Dodge or the higher ups to get this noticed? I wanna make sure that I’m doing everything that I can in my power to fix this not only for myself but for all of everybody else.
 
I guess my next question would be, what are steps that I can take to get Dodge or the higher ups to get this noticed? I wanna make sure that I’m doing everything that I can in my power to fix this not only for myself but for all of everybody else.
I believe they are aware of it at this point. The question.. Are they actively looking into finding a solution
 
From Grok - if you're interested?

In a turbocharged engine, a catalytic converter can "burn up" or fail due to a combination of factors that are either unique to or amplified by the turbo system. Here’s what could cause this:

First off, excessive heat is a major culprit. Turbocharged engines already run hotter than naturally aspirated ones because the turbo compresses air, increasing exhaust temperatures significantly—sometimes pushing past 1,000°F (540°C) under load. The catalytic converter, which needs to operate around 400-800°F (200-425°C) to function properly, can overheat if those exhaust temps spike too high. If the engine’s running lean—too much air, not enough fuel—the combustion gets even hotter, sending scorching exhaust straight into the converter. This can melt the internal ceramic honeycomb structure, effectively burning it up.

Then there’s unburned fuel, which is a big issue with turbos. If the engine misfires or the fuel mixture is too rich—too much fuel, not enough air—raw fuel can dump into the exhaust. In a turbo setup, this fuel can ignite either in the turbo itself or when it hits the hot catalytic converter downstream. This causes a secondary combustion inside the converter, spiking its temperature way beyond normal limits. Over time, or even in one bad event, this can degrade or melt the catalyst material, ruining it.

Oil contamination is another factor, especially with turbos. The turbo relies on oil for lubrication, and if its seals fail—say, from wear or overboosting—oil can leak into the exhaust side. That oil burns in the catalytic converter, coating the honeycomb with soot or carbon deposits. This clogs it up, increases backpressure, and traps heat, which can lead to burnout. A failing turbo bearing or a clogged oil return line can make this worse.

Backpressure itself is a sneaky problem in turbocharged systems. The turbo relies on exhaust flow to spin, and the catalytic converter sits right after it. If the converter’s already partially clogged—maybe from prior damage or contamination—it restricts exhaust flow. This builds pressure upstream, slowing the turbo spool and stressing the engine. The trapped heat can cook the converter further, accelerating its failure.

Finally, physical damage or poor tuning can push it over the edge. Turbo engines are sensitive to tuning—if the boost is cranked too high without proper fuel delivery, you get lean conditions or knock, both of which hammer the converter with heat and unburned fuel. And since the converter’s under the car, road debris or a hard hit could crack its shell, letting exhaust bypass the catalyst and causing uneven heating that leads to failure.

So, in short: extreme heat from lean running or turbo overboost, unburned fuel from misfires or rich mixtures, oil from turbo seal leaks, backpressure from a clog, or bad tuning can all torch a catalytic converter in a turbocharged engine. Regular maintenance—like checking turbo health, ensuring proper air-fuel ratios, and watching for misfires—can help avoid this mess.

🔥
 
I called RAM to file the case and it went great, we will see what comes of it.
Their number is:
1-800-992-1997

I gave them all of the information so now we will see what happens. My truck has been at the service dealership since February 5th
 
I guess my next question would be, what are steps that I can take to get Dodge or the higher ups to get this noticed? I wanna make sure that I’m doing everything that I can in my power to fix this not only for myself but for all of everybody else.

From Grok - if you're interested?

In a turbocharged engine, a catalytic converter can "burn up" or fail due to a combination of factors that are either unique to or amplified by the turbo system. Here’s what could cause this:

First off, excessive heat is a major culprit. Turbocharged engines already run hotter than naturally aspirated ones because the turbo compresses air, increasing exhaust temperatures significantly—sometimes pushing past 1,000°F (540°C) under load. The catalytic converter, which needs to operate around 400-800°F (200-425°C) to function properly, can overheat if those exhaust temps spike too high. If the engine’s running lean—too much air, not enough fuel—the combustion gets even hotter, sending scorching exhaust straight into the converter. This can melt the internal ceramic honeycomb structure, effectively burning it up.

Then there’s unburned fuel, which is a big issue with turbos. If the engine misfires or the fuel mixture is too rich—too much fuel, not enough air—raw fuel can dump into the exhaust. In a turbo setup, this fuel can ignite either in the turbo itself or when it hits the hot catalytic converter downstream. This causes a secondary combustion inside the converter, spiking its temperature way beyond normal limits. Over time, or even in one bad event, this can degrade or melt the catalyst material, ruining it.

Oil contamination is another factor, especially with turbos. The turbo relies on oil for lubrication, and if its seals fail—say, from wear or overboosting—oil can leak into the exhaust side. That oil burns in the catalytic converter, coating the honeycomb with soot or carbon deposits. This clogs it up, increases backpressure, and traps heat, which can lead to burnout. A failing turbo bearing or a clogged oil return line can make this worse.

Backpressure itself is a sneaky problem in turbocharged systems. The turbo relies on exhaust flow to spin, and the catalytic converter sits right after it. If the converter’s already partially clogged—maybe from prior damage or contamination—it restricts exhaust flow. This builds pressure upstream, slowing the turbo spool and stressing the engine. The trapped heat can cook the converter further, accelerating its failure.

Finally, physical damage or poor tuning can push it over the edge. Turbo engines are sensitive to tuning—if the boost is cranked too high without proper fuel delivery, you get lean conditions or knock, both of which hammer the converter with heat and unburned fuel. And since the converter’s under the car, road debris or a hard hit could crack its shell, letting exhaust bypass the catalyst and causing uneven heating that leads to failure.

So, in short: extreme heat from lean running or turbo overboost, unburned fuel from misfires or rich mixtures, oil from turbo seal leaks, backpressure from a clog, or bad tuning can all torch a catalytic converter in a turbocharged engine. Regular maintenance—like checking turbo health, ensuring proper air-fuel ratios, and watching for misfires—can help avoid this mess.

🔥
So high flow cats it is then! Lol
 
So my truck has been at the dealership for over two weeks. First they thought that the O2 sensor was bad, but then they found out that the CAT was completely melted. So they gave me a brand new ram 3500 truck to drive while it’s being repaired and I have put over 800 miles on this truck so far.

My question is, should I be doing anything different once I get my truck back? Should I be driving slower? not accelerate fast? I just want to try and prevent this happening again and it’s been really frustrating when the dealership doesn’t know a lot about it at all. Here’s to hoping that when I get it back tomorrow that it is smooth sailing from here on out.View attachment 7803
Nice pic
 
I believe they are aware of it at this point. The question.. Are they actively looking into finding a solution
I don’t think they do. A good example is their failure to find a solution for the easily stolen TRX, which has now been inherited by RHO.
 
Does this engine have am egt sensor?
 
So update on the situation. I got a call from my representative at ram and they have talked to the dealership and everything. They are going through the process of letting me know if it will be approved that they can buy the truck back from me and then I do what I want from there.

If that does not get approved, then they will compensate me for my truck payments and the inconvenience and all of that. I’m supposed to be getting my truck back tomorrow and it has already been over 30 days that it’s been in the shop.

She is going to give me a call back on Monday to let me know if it was approved or not and then go from there so I’ll keep all of you updated but I am pretty impressed with how they got back to me
 
So update on the situation. I got a call from my representative at ram and they have talked to the dealership and everything. They are going through the process of letting me know if it will be approved that they can buy the truck back from me and then I do what I want from there.

If that does not get approved, then they will compensate me for my truck payments and the inconvenience and all of that. I’m supposed to be getting my truck back tomorrow and it has already been over 30 days that it’s been in the shop.

She is going to give me a call back on Monday to let me know if it was approved or not and then go from there so I’ll keep all of you updated but I am pretty impressed with how they got back to me
I'm waiting on the same answer. Will be interesting to see both offers
 
Knock on wood, I haven't had any issues, but if I have a major issue & the truck gets bought back I'll order another one, so dang nice I don't want to go back to my tacoma for a daily!
 
Does this engine have am egt sensor?
I do not think so but it does have 2 catalytic temp sensors. I bought a Banks iDash Pro and I was able to monitor the temps.
I have noticed the temps range between 900 and 1700 degrees when you hammer the fun pedal. They do go back down pretty quick. On a 100 mile loop at 80mph they hovered around 1400 degrees.
In contrast my 3500 with the high output diesel runs about 600 degrees at the egt sensor and up 900 when it does a regen. Obviously different engines and temps are taken at different points.
 

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