RHO Aux Switch Fuse Sizes

[Steadi]

Wondering if anyone can confirm the Aux Switch fuse ratings for the RHO?
I know on the TRX, switches 1 and 4 had 50 amp fuses, and switches 2 and 3 had 20 amp fuses. Wondering if this carried over to the RHO as I have a few accessories (ARB compressor and some lights) that I’d like to install when I get my truck!

Thanks!

 

[kaos_859]

Here's what I've found.

 

[kaos_859]

Visual confirmation:

 

[3hirty6ixxx]

FYI, the fuse box is COMPLETELY different from previous 5th Gen models. Not sure if it's different from the TRX.

 

[shaun mcmaster]

This is the part number shown on relays -- they are rated at 70A

Not sure why they mix/match 50A and 20A fuses, 60A for all seems a better option maybe?

Amazon.com

 

[shaun mcmaster]

Some relays that might be OKM for running the AMBERs w/ factory DRL wire tap

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

These fused relays look interesting

Amazon.com

Taps, for tapping into DRL factory wiring

Amazon.com

 

[shaun mcmaster]

What I am going for

 

[Jdmdc5teg06]

What I am going for

View attachment 10705View attachment 10704

You’re going to try the relay route to get the hood marker lights to come on with the DRL? And as far as amber DRL, we would have to wait until Tazer comes out so we can modify our DRL’s to be like that photo of the TRX

 

[shaun mcmaster]

You’re going to try the relay route to get the hood marker lights to come on with the DRL? And as far as amber DRL, we would have to wait until Tazer comes out so we can modify our DRL’s to be like that photo of the TRX

Here is video of a guy slaving his Ambers to his factory DRL by simply tapping the wire to the factory DRL and using it to drive a relay. Most sellers of after market lights have multiple ways to do this.

Yes, I could wire to AUX 4 and then alter the program to slave AUX 4 to the DRL logic signal -- maybe. Depends on what access they give you. No guarantee there.

This is not rocket science, it doesn't require changing the computer settings. The amber lights draw so little current, you could in theory just wire the Amber circuit to existing DRL hot wire. I have seen some folks doing that. It will give you whatever current the DRL relay can give.

But I would be concerned in pulling way to much current on that circuit. Isolating it via a relay or FET, sourcing direct from battery, protects the factory electronics AND gives you the max current the Ambers can draw. Some form of electrical isolation should be done regardless of how you turn them on/off. I prefer KNOWING my circuit can handle the electrical load vs guessing.

There is logic/control switching and there is power draw -- you need to follow the rules for both otherwise you run the risk of damaging something. I am sure plenty of folks hack this many ways. The after market light companies have dozen of ways to do this. Including adding entire power subpanels for their aftermarket AUX switches. But as a circuit designer of 30 years -- sometimes hackers royally screw themselves. There is no good substitute for knowing what you are doing.