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Marker Lights

yes indeed. that's the one. doesn't look too difficult, but I know there's somebody on here who knows more about this stuff then I do. lol
 
@Eighty has some experience with marker light upgrades. He posted some helpful info in a different thread:

www.ram-rho.com

RHO Member Order Monitoring/Listing

I received an update from Mark Dodge this afternoon. They indicated that RHO production was scheduled to start August 19 at Sterling Heights. That that for what it's worth.
www.ram-rho.com www.ram-rho.com

Note that the RHO fuse block is different from his TRX's.
 
Thanks I noticed he was the reference post in the TRX Forum too
 
For the record, someone else devised that idea. I just made some extras for a few members that didn’t have the technical skills to splice two wires together.
Has anyone found the mapping of the external fuse block yet for the RHO?
 
Very interested as well

I saw a TRX/RHO drive past me this afternoon and thought his hood was broken as the marker lights weren't on - then I pulled into the cleaners and saw my reflection :ROFLMAO:
 
cconnorhtx said:
Very interested as well

I saw a TRX/RHO drive past me this afternoon and thought his hood was broken as the marker lights weren't on - then I pulled into the cleaners and saw my reflection :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
Tazer DT is the answer. They don’t have it ready for RHO yet, but hopefully soon.
 
Well somebody has to figure this out. I don’t have a RHO, so I can’t try this. But maybe an intrepid soul can. Assuming the RHO has the same fuse layout as every other 2025 DT:
In the under-hood fuse box, fuse F32 is listed as “BCM 2 - Exterior Lights 2”. That may be the one. Try turning on the marker lights and pull that fuse. If they turn off, then we have found our fuse. It’s a 50-amp fuse, which seems a bit high. But I don’t see any harm in pulling the fuse to see what happens.

Fuse F62 is listed as the trailer camera fuse (where we pull ignition power from for the hack on the TRX). It’s only a 10 amp fuse, though. But if F32 is found to be the fuse for the markers, I’d try jumping power from here to see what happens.

You gotta crack a few eggs if you want to make an omelet.
 
Eighty said:
Well somebody has to figure this out. I don’t have a RHO, so I can’t try this. But maybe an intrepid soul can. Assuming the RHO has the same fuse layout as every other 2025 DT:
In the under-hood fuse box, fuse F32 is listed as “BCM 2 - Exterior Lights 2”. That may be the one. Try turning on the marker lights and pull that fuse. If they turn off, then we have found our fuse. It’s a 50-amp fuse, which seems a bit high. But I don’t see any harm in pulling the fuse to see what happens.

Fuse F62 is listed as the trailer camera fuse (where we pull ignition power from for the hack on the TRX). It’s only a 10 amp fuse, though. But if F32 is found to be the fuse for the markers, I’d try jumping power from here to see what happens.

You gotta crack a few eggs if you want to make an omelet.
Click to expand...
perfect - I might be that intrepid soul - I started digging through the current manual / fuse chart - but you provided the homework right there ... ill pull the fuse as you suggested and see what we get (agree 50 seems high so if that's the one there has to be other "stuff" on the circuit.... intrepid to the point of wont cross the "smoke-test" line
 
jb37 said:
perfect - I might be that intrepid soul - I started digging through the current manual / fuse chart - but you provided the homework right there ... ill pull the fuse as you suggested and see what we get (agree 50 seems high so if that's the one there has to be other "stuff" on the circuit.... intrepid to the point of wont cross the "smoke-test" line
Click to expand...
Cool, let me know what happens. If that’s not the fuse, I’ll reach out to an expert on Ram electronics that I know and see if he can figure it out.
 
jb37 said:
perfect - I might be that intrepid soul - I started digging through the current manual / fuse chart - but you provided the homework right there ... ill pull the fuse as you suggested and see what we get (agree 50 seems high so if that's the one there has to be other "stuff" on the circuit.... intrepid to the point of wont cross the "smoke-test" line
Click to expand...
If you see the puff of magic blue smoke, then abort
 
@Eighty - tomorrow I will get under the hood - or in the fuse box and see what we have - thanks for the guidance ... I'll pull that 50 amp and see if its just the external lights .... and share back here
 
well step 1 confirmed - Im old (Fuse map print is tiny) ... step 1.a also confirmed - F32 does indeed align to outside markers and hood markers (although not sure what else may be on that circuit with a 50 AMP cartage fuse) ... now for the hard part - how to fuse tap this size - and the "smoke test".

1736701301536.webp
1736701258610.webp
 
jb37 said:
well step 1 confirmed - Im old (Fuse map print is tiny) ... step 1.a also confirmed - F32 does indeed align to outside markers and hood markers (although not sure what else may be on that circuit with a 50 AMP cartage fuse) ... now for the hard part - how to fuse tap this size - and the "smoke test".

View attachment 4941View attachment 4940
Click to expand...
Cool. Now the trick would be to route power from somewhere else to keep the lights on. The trailer camera is a good candidate because (1) it's ignition-only power, and (2) it's not in use on a normal basis. On the TRX, it was never used, so is effectively a "free" source.

The idea with the fuse taps spliced together is this: Tap into power at F62 (trailer camera) - meaning you keep both prongs of the fuse tap at that location. You take the fuse out of the F62 slot and plug it into the tap (along with another matching fuse in the secondary slot). Then you splice on another fuse tap to the free end, which will plug into F32 to receive the power (also with fuses plugged into the tap). But there's a catch. You need to cut off one of the prongs at the F32 location. It needs to be the prong on the "hot" side of the fuse. Since you're sending power from F62 to F32, you only want it to go into the "receiving" side, not the "sending" side. If that makes sense. You may have to pull out a voltage detector and probe each side of the F32 fuse location. You'll see 12v on the "hot" side, and nothing on the other side. You'll plug your one-prong fuse tap into the not-hot slot.

Does this make sense?
EDIT: Hang tight and I'll draw a diagram.
 
Last edited:
Eighty said:
Cool. Now the trick would be to route power from somewhere else to keep the lights on. The trailer camera is a good candidate because (1) it's ignition-only power, and (2) it's not in use on a normal basis. On the TRX, it was never used, so is effectively a "free" source.

The idea with the fuse taps spliced together is this: Tap into power at F62 (trailer camera) - meaning you keep both prongs of the fuse tap at that location. You take the fuse out of the F62 slot and plug it into the tap (along with another matching fuse in the secondary slot). Then you splice on another fuse tap to the free end, which will plug into F32 to receive the power (also with fuses plugged into the tap). But there's a catch. You need to cut off one of the prongs at the F32 location. It needs to be the prong on the "hot" side of the fuse. Since you're sending power from F62 to F32, you only want it to go into the "receiving" side, not the "sending" side. If that makes sense. You may have to pull out a voltage detector and probe each side of the F32 fuse location. You'll see 12v on the "hot" side, and nothing on the other side. You'll plug your one-prong fuse tap into the not-hot slot.

Does this make sense?
EDIT: Hang tight and I'll draw a diagram.
Click to expand...
Or wait less than a month for a plug and play Tazer DT.
 
Ok, I think I've got this right. I'm not sure if you'll need two different styles of fuse tap (one for the F62 slot which is a 10A slot, and another for the F32 slot which is a 50A slot). I don't recall off the top of my head if they have differently spaced prongs.

1736707504396.webp
 
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