True rock sliders

Ok, it (white-knuckleoffroad) doesn’t fit.
1) too long so I have to remove mud flaps (and cut them later)
2) the mounting plates are not sitting on the frame at the front..
IMG_3889.webpIMG_3888.webp

Only tried passenger side..
Potentially I can make it fit (with angle grinder and welding), but not sure I want..

What do you think ?
 
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Hey everyone, I just got my sliders from Rocky-road (ordered way back in May)! FINALLY installed them—and here’s a quick report with a photo for context:

IMG_4691.webp
 
Were these weld on or bolt on?
It’s bolted to the rocker panels, so not really true sliders 🙂.
But after a couple of off-road sessions, I think I won’t be pushing the RHO into serious climbing anyway.
 
Hey everyone, I just got my sliders from Rocky-road (ordered way back in May)! FINALLY installed them—and here’s a quick report with a photo for context:

View attachment 16917

@IvanNik
Anyone know the weight difference between the Rocky Road Full Cover Kicker Sliders vs the Mopar Off-Road Style Running Boards? Is there a significant weight delta betweeen the two?

I'm still looking for "steps" for the family, so not interested in the Mopar Rock Rails in its current form. If the weight difference is reasonable, I'll go Rocky Road kicker sliders. If its like 100lbs delta, then I'll need to think whether its worth it considering payload and everything else i plan on adding to the truck and may go with the Mopar Running Boards instead.

Anyone else find any other frame-mounted options too?
 
Hey everyone, I just got my sliders from Rocky-road (ordered way back in May)! FINALLY installed them—and here’s a quick report with a photo for context:

View attachment 16917
Any chance you have a measurement for the depth of the “step” at both the main slider, and at the kickout? Any feedback after having them on for the past week or so?
 
Any chance you have a measurement for the depth of the “step” at both the main slider, and at the kickout? Any feedback after having them on for the past week or so?
I think the difference is about 80 lb for the pair.

Effective/usable depths:
  • Step: 3 ¼″
  • Kickout: 5″

It’s not very practical as a “step” because of the narrow depth. The rear entrance is more usable since the kicker is wider. Overall, it feels more functional as a rock slider than a step.

Will test it in the sand tomorrow.
 

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I think the difference is about 80 lb for the pair.

Effective/usable depths:
  • Step: 3 ¼″
  • Kickout: 5″

It’s not very practical as a “step” because of the narrow depth. The rear entrance is more usable since the kicker is wider. Overall, it feels more functional as a rock slider than a step.

Will test it in the sand tomorrow.
Super helpful, thanks!
 
How these holding up? How’s the “grip” feel with some wet boots/ shoes on? I’m about to order these

They’re holding up great. You can definitely step on them with wet boots/shoes and climb up - I use them all the time.

That said, keep in mind the slider is narrow, so if you’re not paying attention you can slip off to the side. Grip is good, but it’s not a wide step.

Big plus: very solid, stiff construction - you can literally lift the truck using these sliders.

Big minus: narrow profile.

Overall, still the best off-the-shelf off-road option in my opinion. The only real step up from here is a fully custom setup.
 
They’re holding up great. You can definitely step on them with wet boots/shoes and climb up - I use them all the time.

That said, keep in mind the slider is narrow, so if you’re not paying attention you can slip off to the side. Grip is good, but it’s not a wide step.

Big plus: very solid, stiff construction - you can literally lift the truck using these sliders.

Big minus: narrow profile.

Overall, still the best off-the-shelf off-road option in my opinion. The only real step up from here is a fully custom setup.
Awesome and thanks for the details. I will use them as steps but my wife definitely needs a little help getting into the cab. These looked like the better option of the few out there. Ordered them last night!
 
That how it looks like (front/rear):
IMG_6162.webpIMG_6163.webp
 
That how it looks like (front/rear):
View attachment 26481View attachment 26480
That’s perfect. I actually didn’t want a wide profile. Just enough to stand on and give me some peace of mind on the trail. I’m scheduling ceramic coating too and throwing in some mud flaps.

After these are on I think I’ll do the mid-pipe exhaust since I already did an intake from aFe
 
It’s bolted to the rocker panels, so not really true sliders 🙂.
But after a couple of off-road sessions, I think I won’t be pushing the RHO into serious climbing anyway.
Happy you like our rock sliders. A bit of correction... these are TRUE Rock sliders. We tested a frame mounted system on the 1500 RAM frames and found the leverage with the longer mounting arms to the frame was too significant. We need to be able to pick up the vehicle with the rock slider and bounce it in our testing.

The huge leverage from mounting all the way to the frame was putting heavy torsional load on the frame and the frame was visibly was flexing and deflecting with our testing. Our liability carrier wouldn’t allow it to pass their engineering requirement. They felt, and we did too, that the frame could buckle or twist under a heavy impact, and that would lead your insurance to ‘total’ the vehicle.

Instead, we engineered this massively strong system which attaches to the reinforced collision panels on the outside of the RAM 1500's (and yes, the RHO and TRX as well). The reinforced collision panels have near the strength of the frame, but the leverage at impact is exponentially reduced. This ends up being a much safer rock slider system for the truck, best protection, incredibly strong as we can lift the vehicle off the ground with our kit while no other rock slider on the market has proven to do this.

Frame mounting is NOT always the best. On the surface it can seem to be, but when doing the actual load testing, it sometimes is not ideal. A few of the high end rock slider companies like ourselves, conduct the testing necessary to determine frame or collision panels. Many do not, sadly and just throw out a frame mount regardless of stresses to the frame and inclusive of leverage loads to the frame.
But to think that "frame mounting" is mandatory for a "true rock slider", is not correct. It depends on the vehicle, the frame, a number of factors.
Hope that helps!
 
Happy you like our rock sliders. A bit of correction... these are TRUE Rock sliders. We tested a frame mounted system on the 1500 RAM frames and found the leverage with the longer mounting arms to the frame was too significant. We need to be able to pick up the vehicle with the rock slider and bounce it in our testing.

The huge leverage from mounting all the way to the frame was putting heavy torsional load on the frame and the frame was visibly was flexing and deflecting with our testing. Our liability carrier wouldn’t allow it to pass their engineering requirement. They felt, and we did too, that the frame could buckle or twist under a heavy impact, and that would lead your insurance to ‘total’ the vehicle.

Instead, we engineered this massively strong system which attaches to the reinforced collision panels on the outside of the RAM 1500's (and yes, the RHO and TRX as well). The reinforced collision panels have near the strength of the frame, but the leverage at impact is exponentially reduced. This ends up being a much safer rock slider system for the truck, best protection, incredibly strong as we can lift the vehicle off the ground with our kit while no other rock slider on the market has proven to do this.

Frame mounting is NOT always the best. On the surface it can seem to be, but when doing the actual load testing, it sometimes is not ideal. A few of the high end rock slider companies like ourselves, conduct the testing necessary to determine frame or collision panels. Many do not, sadly and just throw out a frame mount regardless of stresses to the frame and inclusive of leverage loads to the frame.
But to think that "frame mounting" is mandatory for a "true rock slider", is not correct. It depends on the vehicle, the frame, a number of factors.
Hope that helps!

The sliders are the best so far!
Thanks for the explanation. I have two questions:
  • "Near the strength of the frame" doesn't seem like a meaningful engineering comparison by itself. What specific property or test results are you using to support that statement?
  • You mention leverage is "exponentially reduced." My understanding is that leverage (bending moment) changes approximately linearly with distance. Can you clarify what you mean and how that reduction was quantified?
 
The sliders are the best so far!
Thanks for the explanation. I have two questions:
  • "Near the strength of the frame" doesn't seem like a meaningful engineering comparison by itself. What specific property or test results are you using to support that statement?
  • You mention leverage is "exponentially reduced." My understanding is that leverage (bending moment) changes approximately linearly with distance. Can you clarify what you mean and how that reduction was quantified?
 
Exhaust - Magnaflow vs AWE vs MRT vs Others IGLA/Compustar I have a a scheduled date! Factory running boards?? RAM RHO HO Downpipes with High Flow Cats +100hp! RHO Has No Front License Plate Bracket?
Exhaust - Magnaflow vs AWE vs MRT vs Others IGLA/Compustar I have a a scheduled date! Factory running boards??

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