Vossen Wheels for RHO

[Vaporsrx]

Hello All,

I’m looking to pull the trigger on some new wheels and tires and want to make sure they’re not gonna rub. The offset is what keeps screwing me up. Anyone with the same setup out there able to verify or share any experience?

Here’s what I’m looking at:
Vossen HF6-4 20x9.5 ET15 Deep Face
Toyo Open Counrtry A/T III 35x1250R20LT

I’m also putting on some Eibach Pro Kit Springs +1.6 Front/ +1.5 Rear.

Thanks,

 

[Raptor2RHO]

Hello All,

I’m looking to pull the trigger on some new wheels and tires and want to make sure they’re not gonna rub. The offset is what keeps screwing me up. Anyone with the same setup out there able to verify or share any experience?

Here’s what I’m looking at:
Vossen HF6-4 20x9.5 ET15 Deep Face
Toyo Open Counrtry A/T III 35x1250R20LT

I’m also putting on some Eibach Pro Kit Springs +1.6 Front/ +1.5 Rear.

Thanks,

You will be perfectly fine with that setup, sir.

 

[Irongoats]

I also did the front level and didn't touch the back looks pretty level to me. Going with 20x10, -18 on 37s.

 

[Adub]

You’ll be good and could even go 37s. I intend to return my pro kit and grab the same springs as you after all the issues others are experiencing going higher. Once the amp powersteps come in, I’ll throw the lift, Vossen hfx-1 (-18), and some 37x12.50r20s on. Look forward to seeing your build!

 

[Vaporsrx]

I also did the front level and didn't touch the back looks pretty level to me. Going with 20x10, -18 on 37s.

Would 20x10 -18’s work with the same 35 Toyo tires I was looking at and not rub? Is there any benefit to +offset vs -offset? I’m trying to fill the wheel well as much as possible without protruding out the side too much and don’t want to deal with rubbing or having to trim or modify anything to keep it from rubbing.

 

[D&Sadventure]

You neglected to mention the offset in your first post where you mentioned your concern was the offset. In your last post you mentioned -18 which I think would look goofy because they would be sitting out an inch and a half from where they are from the factory. Nothing sillier looking than a widebody truck with the wheels still sticking out farther than the fender. Very likely to rub with the -18. Guaranteed to rub if you put 37s on it with those wheels.

 

[Adub]

False and false. He mentioned it and it will align with the fenders (now if you go -44, that’s a different story). It’ll look great and you build the truck the way you want to build it. Here is a RHO on -18 37x12.50r20. You will probably have to cut a small amount of plastic for no rubbing.

 

[D&Sadventure]

False and false. He mentioned it and it will align with the fenders (now if you go -44, that’s a different story). It’ll look great and you build the truck the way you want to build it. Here is a RHO on -18 37x12.50r20. You will probably have to cut a small amount of plastic for no rubbing.

View attachment 12763

No mention of offset in his first post. Good luck with that. It might work if you don’t plan on actually starting the truck up or driving it around anywhere where the suspension has to work.

 

[Raptor2RHO]

No mention of offset in his first post. Good luck with that. It might work if you don’t plan on actually starting the truck up or driving it around anywhere where the suspension has to work.

ET15 is the offset he clearly mentioned in the first post. That’s +15.

 

[Adub]

Vossen HF6-4 20x9.5 ET15 Deep Face

20x9.5 ET15 (that’s +15)

OP, the same wheel and offset can be found on the forum if you get nervous about -18. I forget who did it though.

 

[D&Sadventure]

Positive 15 offset and -18 offset like he actually mentioned in post number 5 are completely different

 

[Adub]

@Vaporsrx

@frogjbm has a level, 37s and -18 wheels. He made a post showing what little was needed to not rub and even had pictures showing where to work the plastic.

 

[Raptor2RHO]

Positive 15 offset and -18 offset like he actually mentioned in post number 5 are completely different

Dude. You said twice that the OP didn’t mention the offset in his original post. @Adub corrected you and pointed out he did. You again stated he did not and were wrong again. We were just pointing out the OP did state the offset when asking his question in the original post. Take a lap.

 

[D&Sadventure]

Dude. You said twice that the OP didn’t mention the offset in his original post. @Adub corrected you and pointed out he did. You again stated he did not and were wrong again. We were just pointing out the OP did state the offset when asking his question in the original post. Take a lap.

“DUDE” Well, if ET 15 is Vossen for + 15 offset then I guess so but when he said offset in post five, it was -18

 

[Irongoats]

@Vaporsrx

@frogjbm has a level, 37s and -18 wheels. He made a post showing what little was needed to not rub and even had pictures showing where to work the plastic.

I copied el Frog and he has my vote this month! ha

 

[Vaporsrx]

Thanks for the responses, and sorry for the confusion on the offset. The way Vossen listed it had been confused when I first started looking into it.

 

[Adub]

37x12.50r20 -18mm stance for anyone that is interested. Hope this helps!

 

[frogjbm]

Here’s my setup guys. Foutz 1.5” collars. I’m running 20x10 Fuel Clash wheels with -18 offset with 37x12.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Yes I had to trim a small portion of metal (1/4”) with a Dremel cutting wheel behind this screw where the tire makes minimal contact then heated the plastic with my heat gun and formed it backwards to avoid rub. Very simple. You could never tell I did anything because I took my time and did the job right. Even with wheel articulation, I have no issues with rubbing. It turned out perfect for my liking. Gives it a very nice stance. I hope this is helpful to anyone wanting this setup.

 

[Irongoats]

Where is this screw you speak of I'll trim it now before the wheels/tires come in?

 

[frogjbm]

Where is this screw you speak of I'll trim it now before the wheels/tires come in?

Furthest screw on the bottom. Behind this screw you will find metal. I cut from about an inch high and down working my way in deeper into the metal as I cut downward, essentially making it curve inward freeing up space for the plastic to move inward to the truck and away from the tire. Wear eye and lung protection and grab a cutting tool (I used my rotary cutter). Then used heat gun to soften the plastic just enough to form it, l used a 2x4 piece of wood to wedge against the tire and the plastic paneling and pushed it back holding in place while the plastic cooled as I’m blowing on it. Ultimately moved the plastic back away from the tire by 1/4-1/2” further from the tire.