Alignment after eibach 1.6” front install

[renGA]

Absolutely did. The instructions from Eibach say to "use original spring grommets." If you dont, its metal on metal (metal springs sitting on the metal perch). No noise whatsoever anymore.

Thanks, I had told them to do that cause I read it here before. Guess they didn't, gonna check the stock springs now.

 

[renGA]

Absolutely did. The instructions from Eibach say to "use original spring grommets." If you dont, its metal on metal (metal springs sitting on the metal perch). No noise whatsoever anymore.

Service manager didn't pass on my instructions to the tech to make sure it was done. Got it corrected and finally all is well again

 

[yoda33073]

Service manager didn't pass on my instructions to the tech to make sure it was done. Got it corrected and finally all is well again

Thats great

 

[renGA]

Thats great

Shit happens but the shop dealt with it professionally.

 

[D&Sadventure]

Installed the eibach 1.6” up front yesterday and took it in for an alignment today.
Has anyone got an alignment print out for their RHO? Did the description say RHO? Mine says dodge /ram / srt /promaster 1500. I was looking through the TRX forums and found some alignment sheets and the numbers are damn near the same. Just very odd to me that it shows promaster with low roof. I mean they input my vin number and this is what comes up, very odd.

Sorry, just saw this. Yes there is an RHO specific specification. It is not a pro master 118 inch wheelbase low roof van. Wish I had seen your post months ago. It still needs an alignment. They use the wrong specs. And you need a refund.

 

[D&Sadventure]

I did all the work myself, I have no clunking since I put them on. There are a few things that need to be done during install that I hope all shops would do. One of them being the lower shock bolt. It has grooves on the bolt head side bushing that need to be seated and torqued AFTER the tires are back on and the truck is on the ground.

Another is the sway bar end links are pretty delicate on these things. The best way to get the lower control arm to properly come down is to take off the bolts on both sides of the sway bar bushing mounts and let the sway bar rest on the skid plate, leaving the end links alone. If they did take apart the end links they MUST be torqued under load, just like the lower control arm shock bolt.

If the springs are properly seated in the perch and the perch is lined up correctly, with the notch over the flat hex nut on the shock body, then I would be looking at sway bar end links and lower control arm bolts being tightened under load, on the ground. If they tightened these up on a lift, have them loosened (unseat the bushing on the lower control arm bolt head end with a pry bar) then re-tighten and torque on the ground.

I’m about to finally do my Eibach front springs. Glad I saw this post of yours. Good information. I had not thought about dropping the sway bar like you did.