- Joined
- Jan 1, 2026
- Messages
- 659
- Media
- 12
- Reaction score
- 833
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
- Current Ride
- 2016 Silverado 1500
- Current Ride #2
- 2026 Ram RHO
- First Responder
- LVMPD
Can't wait to see how they turn outAs is as recommended
Can't wait to see how they turn outAs is as recommended
I do play the drums but I don't do the welding@DBallz Your probably a hell of a drummer too.
I say that because clearly he has rhythm and the ability to use two hands and a foot at the same time
Looks like it rightAre yall just going to put them in a display case, or is anyone going to mount these things?! Come on already!
Calling my guy in the am to get on the install list. Hopefully have them on next weekAre yall just going to put them in a display case, or is anyone going to mount these things?! Come on already!
I have a local 4x4/truck shop that does performance work tooWhat type of shops are you planning on for the install ? Truck / 4X4 shops , Performance shops , classic old school mechanic shop , exhaust and muffler shop ?
Mines lined up for Tuesday install…I didn’t even bother asking a price since I’m this deep in anywaysMy exhaust shop quoted me 600 to slap them on. I wanted to put a couple more mile on my truck to make sure everything’s good. Only have 4K miles on the dash.
That's not too 'bad'. I'm trying to get an idea for what type of shop to take it to. I only ask because when I had my BMW I had a BMW specialized performance shop quote me $1,200 for install of a single downpipe. I had 2 exhaust shops deny me completely because "they weren't allowed to alter the emission system in any way".My exhaust shop quoted me 600 to slap them on. I wanted to put a couple more mile on my truck to make sure everything’s good. Only have 4K miles on the dash.
Are you guy going to share these instructions with the shops to get a quote so they have an idea of the workload , or are you going to let them figure it out on their own ?Not too bad 4-5 hours with normal mechanics tools. If your toolbox sucks so will your install time....
Drivers side fender liner comes out.
Skid plates come off.
Front driveshaft comes out.
4 bolt from the front diff yoke and loosen the clamp on the t-case side and it pulls forward off the shaft.
If you dont have the appropriate extensions and swivel joints this part requires putting t-case in neutral to rotate the shaft to gain access to each bolt, back to the toolbox sucking reference.
Sway bar mounts un-bolt.
Then it's just unplugging and removing O2's and unbolting everything.
The bracket nuts are tucked up a ways, so again if you don't have a long handle ratchet this is gonna suck. I hit them from the top with the ol' makita power ratchet once I have them loosened.
Bottom one comes out first.
Then the top one comes out super easy as mucho clearance now exists. Oe ones are fairly large compared to the Fat Kitties.
New ones go in way easier as the occupy less space.
Must be nice, I’m a poor RHO owner hahahaMines lined up for Tuesday install…I didn’t even bother asking a price since I’m this deep in anyways![]()
I sent my guy at the exhaust shop a screenshot of DBallz instructions. That’s what they’re going off of for the quote.Are you guy going to share these instructions with the shops to get a quote so they have an idea of the workload , or are you going to let them figure it out on their own ?
Sorry to hear that man, shit happens. I once stabbed my self in the face with a flat head trying to get a cotter pin out of an axle nut.I went to do mine last Sunday but didn’t make it past jacking the truck up.
Jack slid and caught my left pinky in between the end for the floor jack handle and my wife’s vehicle tire next to it. 8 stitches, embarrassing lol.
Crawling under the truck, it doesn’t look to bad following DBalz instructions and having the correct tools which I have. I even had rented a set of o2 sensor sockets to make it easier, dropped them off on the way to the ER, guy didn’t even charge me, felt sorry for my dumbass.