If this doesn’t convince you…

Perfect. Thanks!! Black RHO here also, so I'll try to break the trend. LOL
 
The Valvoline bags are very good fluid. When I did the difs in my previous Rebel HD I did the Bank's rear diff cover and got the Amsoil kit to go with it. When I did the front diff cover with a PPE cover, I went with the Valvoline bags because the fluid had comparable properties to the Amsoil. Cummins even endorses Valvoline and it was all my 6.7 ever saw. I'd have no problem using Valvoline anything.

I've also used Ravenol from the bottles before on a Land Rover with a pump, and pretty much all Ravenol oil will always have excellent properties. No hesitations about using Ravenol anything fluid, either.
 
That’s it. A bit pricier than the dealer, but you save a trip. You’ll need 3.

And, make sure to leave the fill plug open while draining. It flows much better & likely carries more contaminants out.
Thanks!!
 
Warning.. Rant incoming.

Terrible dealer experience trying to have my rear diff fluid changed. Finally got it done, but it was a challenge.

I asked for an oil change/rotate and diff fluid change (5k miles) at my appt. time of 9:30. Advisor said he would try and have it ready by noon.
Vehicle wasn't ready until 3:30. Picked up the truck and as I'm walking out I notice 2 units of the gear oil billed and 1 unit of a mystery additive (Non OEM).
I call their parts dept from my truck and they confirm 3 quarts (2.7) of standard fluid is needed. I went back to the Advisor, he refers me to the Manager who tells me they use an additive based on their experience and shows me a tube of some product that is not recommended by Ram. Additionally the volume of this tube would have been insufficient to fill the diff to capacity. No way it was 7/10ths of a quart.

After considerable debate, they agreed to do the job again with the correct fluid. I had to leave and come back 2 hours later to pick up the truck.
Bottom line, check your invoice. Mistakes can be made, or in this case not letting me know that they would be using non-OEM products.
The Manager told me most people aren't as picky as I am... Umm... sure, it's my fault for expecting OEM parts at a dealer.
 
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My dealer used a BG gear fluid. They advised it meets the requirements for the truck...
I might swap it out for amsoil.
 
My dealer used a BG gear fluid. They advised it meets the requirements for the truck...
I might swap it out for amsoil.
Even that would have been fine for me if it was the proper viscosity and met OEM specifications.
My dealer used 2 quarts of the incorrect oil with an additive that is not called for in the RHO.
They used products for a Limited Slip diff, which is not what we have in the RHO (E-Diff for us).
 
They probably used a quart of piss after all that.
Agreed... I'll probably change it myself for peace of mind which is unfortunate, but I think your spot on.
 
Agreed... I'll probably change it myself for peace of mind which is unfortunate, but I think your spot on.
It’s super easy. If you’ve ever changed your engine oil/filter, it’s even easier than that…no filter. Plus, the truck is high enough to not need any lift, unless you are over 400lbs or can’t get up off the ground.

My latest dealer experience was worse. They only torqued 5 of my 6 lug nuts after a tire rotation & the ones they tightened were under-torqued, they lost one of my OEM valve stem caps (replacement only sold in set of 4 for $40!) & I noticed a freshly removed trim screw (guessing it’s a tough to find screw).

So, unless I need warranty work, I will steer clear of the dealer. Find a trust-worthy local mechanic who actually listens or do it yourself.
 
Agreed... I'll probably change it myself for peace of mind which is unfortunate, but I think your spot on.
It’s super easy. If you’ve ever changed your engine oil/filter, it’s even easier than that…no filter. Plus, the truck is high enough to not need any lift, unless you are over 400lbs or can’t get up off the ground.

My latest dealer experience was worse. They only torqued 5 of my 6 lug nuts after a tire rotation & the ones they tightened were under-torqued, they lost one of my OEM valve stem caps (replacement only sold in set of 4 for $40!) & I noticed a freshly removed trim screw (guessing it’s a tough to find screw).

So, unless I need warranty work, I will steer clear of the dealer. Find a trust-worthy local mechanic who actually listens or do it yourself.
BTW, I actually found an excellent mobile mechanic on Nextdoor. The guy was a master tech who worked in dealerships for many years. He actually understands & can work on advanced electrical systems, like the one in our RHO. Very responsive & great communicator. Hope he makes it as an independent.
 
Even that would have been fine for me if it was the proper viscosity and met OEM specifications.
My dealer used 2 quarts of the incorrect oil with an additive that is not called for in the RHO.
They used products for a Limited Slip diff, which is not what we have in the RHO (E-Diff for us).
Technically speaking, RHO has an electronic locking diff (or e-locker), not an e-diff.

E-diff refers to a unit that has electronically controlled clutch packs or uses the rear brakes (to simulate an LSD). It’s an evolution of a limited slip diff where the amount of torque distribution between the rear wheels can be controlled by the vehicle dynamics computer module.
 
Is there a crush washer on either the drain/fill plugs that should be replaced when changing the fluid? If so, does anyone have a part number? With my current tacoma when you do these changes you need a whole bag of new washers for all the different plugs.
 
Technically speaking, RHO has an electronic locking diff (or e-locker), not an e-diff.

E-diff refers to a unit that has electronically controlled clutch packs or uses the rear brakes (to simulate an LSD). It’s an evolution of a limited slip diff where the amount of torque distribution between the rear wheels can be controlled by the vehicle dynamics computer module.
Thanks RHOfan... spot on.
Fortunately, I knew enough to know that it wasn't an LSD and that they had used the wrong fluid.
The vehicles may already have a propensity for problems down the road given the fluid condition owners are reporting during early inspection.
The last thing I want to do is worsen the problem and have failure which would absolutely occur just outside of warranty courtesy of Murphy's Law.
 
Is there a crush washer on either the drain/fill plugs that should be replaced when changing the fluid? If so, does anyone have a part number? With my current tacoma when you do these changes you need a whole bag of new washers for all the different plugs.
No there is not.
 
Changed mine this morning. No surprises, results were just like everyone else. Very dirty and there was definitely small amounts of metal on both magnetic plugs.

I found it easier and quicker to pour the oil in and then use the pump for the remaining amount.

Chris
 
Changed mine this morning. No surprises, results were just like everyone else. Very dirty and there was definitely small amounts of metal on both magnetic plugs.

I found it easier and quicker to pour the oil in and then use the pump for the remaining amount.

Chris
How many miles on your truck?
 
What did you do to your RHO Today? Hood graphics Boosted Motorsports Viper HO Hurricane build....850WHP What did you do to your RHO Today? RAM RHO HO Downpipes with High Flow Cats +100hp! What Vehicle Are You Leaving Behind for the RHO?
What did you do to your RHO Today? Hood graphics Boosted Motorsports Viper HO Hurricane build....850WHP What did you do to your RHO Today?

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