That’s it. A bit pricier than the dealer, but you save a trip. You’ll need 3.
Thanks!!That’s it. A bit pricier than the dealer, but you save a trip. You’ll need 3.
And, make sure to leave the fill plug open while draining. It flows much better & likely carries more contaminants out.
Even that would have been fine for me if it was the proper viscosity and met OEM specifications.My dealer used a BG gear fluid. They advised it meets the requirements for the truck...
I might swap it out for amsoil.
Agreed... I'll probably change it myself for peace of mind which is unfortunate, but I think your spot on.They probably used a quart of piss after all that.
It’s super easy. If you’ve ever changed your engine oil/filter, it’s even easier than that…no filter. Plus, the truck is high enough to not need any lift, unless you are over 400lbs or can’t get up off the ground.Agreed... I'll probably change it myself for peace of mind which is unfortunate, but I think your spot on.
Agreed... I'll probably change it myself for peace of mind which is unfortunate, but I think your spot on.
BTW, I actually found an excellent mobile mechanic on Nextdoor. The guy was a master tech who worked in dealerships for many years. He actually understands & can work on advanced electrical systems, like the one in our RHO. Very responsive & great communicator. Hope he makes it as an independent.It’s super easy. If you’ve ever changed your engine oil/filter, it’s even easier than that…no filter. Plus, the truck is high enough to not need any lift, unless you are over 400lbs or can’t get up off the ground.
My latest dealer experience was worse. They only torqued 5 of my 6 lug nuts after a tire rotation & the ones they tightened were under-torqued, they lost one of my OEM valve stem caps (replacement only sold in set of 4 for $40!) & I noticed a freshly removed trim screw (guessing it’s a tough to find screw).
So, unless I need warranty work, I will steer clear of the dealer. Find a trust-worthy local mechanic who actually listens or do it yourself.
Technically speaking, RHO has an electronic locking diff (or e-locker), not an e-diff.Even that would have been fine for me if it was the proper viscosity and met OEM specifications.
My dealer used 2 quarts of the incorrect oil with an additive that is not called for in the RHO.
They used products for a Limited Slip diff, which is not what we have in the RHO (E-Diff for us).
Thanks RHOfan... spot on.Technically speaking, RHO has an electronic locking diff (or e-locker), not an e-diff.
E-diff refers to a unit that has electronically controlled clutch packs or uses the rear brakes (to simulate an LSD). It’s an evolution of a limited slip diff where the amount of torque distribution between the rear wheels can be controlled by the vehicle dynamics computer module.
No there is not.Is there a crush washer on either the drain/fill plugs that should be replaced when changing the fluid? If so, does anyone have a part number? With my current tacoma when you do these changes you need a whole bag of new washers for all the different plugs.
How many miles on your truck?Changed mine this morning. No surprises, results were just like everyone else. Very dirty and there was definitely small amounts of metal on both magnetic plugs.
I found it easier and quicker to pour the oil in and then use the pump for the remaining amount.
Chris
6200How many miles on your truck?
Thanks6200